Xeryus Rouge
In 1986, Givenchy introduced Xeryus to the world – an aromatic fougère named after the star Sirius. However, these perfumes did not achieve the desired success and were consequently withdrawn from the market. Nonetheless, a decade later, the French brand revived the name and launched Xeryus Rouge as the successor to Xeryus. This fragrance proved to be a hit and remains readily available on the shelves of chain perfumeries today. It is worth noting that this new composition is set in a completely different style from its predecessor. Xeryus Rouge is, in fact, the first oriental perfume in Givenchy's history. Regular readers of the blog will know my affinity for scents inspired by the Orient, so it should come as no surprise that I eagerly decided to test this fragrance.
Almost immediately after applying Xeryus Rouge to the skin, you can sense its complexity and depth. From the outset, it is sharp and distinctly tingles the nose, a result of the tarragon present in the fragrance's note pyramid. This gives the composition a dry character and a spicy piquancy. The initial impression of this perfume is also sweetened by the presence of kumquat, also known as Chinese mandarin. I must admit, Xeryus Rouge is the first fragrance I've encountered that includes this ingredient. The kumquat smooths the composition, making it more approachable. Additionally, the top notes feature cactus. Having never experienced the scent of this desert succulent before, I quickly visited a store to correct this oversight. I discovered that cactus has a bitter and slightly green aroma, elements of which are also present in Givenchy's perfume.
Just a few minutes after applying Xeryus Rouge, it begins to noticeably evolve, with new notes emerging. I must confess that during my initial tests, I mistook the geranium in the composition for rose. Geranium is similarly sweet but carries a more pronounced masculinity. To tame this, cedar leaf is used, its greenery toning down the aggressive nature of Xeryus Rouge's heart. This aggression is not solely due to the geranium; it is also caused by the introduction of pimento at this stage. It forms the core of this perfume, adding spiciness. Together with geranium, it shapes the sharp and distinctly masculine character of the scent. And it extends to the base, which is strongly woody. Cedar is prominently featured, well complemented by sandalwood. This combination made the final phase of Xeryus Rouge reminiscent of Boss Bottled. Only at this point did I decide to check the creator of Givenchy's composition. It was no great surprise to find that the perfumer behind it is Annick Ménardo, who also created Boss Bottled. However, I must note that the musk in Xeryus Rouge's base made it feel more masculine to me than Boss's composition. There is something captivating in its sweetness that lasts until the final detectable notes.
A significant advantage of the perfumes presented today is their performance. Xeryus Rouge is an exceptionally strong fragrance. Even when applied only to the wrist, it projects intensely. In this regard, it can confidently rival compositions from the 1980s. Its longevity is also impressive, lasting on the skin for 16-18 hours. Remarkably, it remained fragrant even after I took a shower, despite theoretically washing it off. And this is just an eau de toilette…
The Xeryus Rouge bottle also leaves a very positive impression. The red color immediately stands out, evoking both the intensity and the sharper character of the composition. The shape is simple, with no embellishments on the bottle. The black label with a light border is very stylish, as is the font used for the name of the perfume and its producer. The overall design is completed with a substantial black cap.
In my opinion, Xeryus Rouge is the finest creation by Annick Ménardo that I have encountered so far. This fragrance is decidedly bold and masculine, crafted according to traditional standards yet still modern (or at least it was considered modern in 1996). It possesses a timeless quality. However, it is important to note that this is a distinctly evening fragrance, best suited for men who enjoy attracting attention. Xeryus Rouge undeniably guarantees interest from the opposite sex. Like Embers by Rouge Bunny Rouge, which I previously reviewed, this is not a scent for boys.
Xeryus Rouge
Key Notes: Pimento, Geranium
Author: Annick Ménardo
Year of creation: 1996
My rating: Highly recommended! (7/7)