Penhaligon's - Juniper Sling
The history of gin & tonic traces its roots back to the colonial era. In those days, British soldiers stationed in Asia and Africa turned to a concoction of dissolved quinine in soda water to fend off malaria. Yet, to temper the bitter tang of this remedy, they often infused it with gin. Thus emerged one of today's most celebrated cocktails, reaching its zenith of popularity amidst the vibrant streets of 1920s London. It was in tribute to this glamorous epoch that Juniper Sling made its debut in 2012. Crafted by Olivier Cresp for the distinguished English house Penhaligon’s, this fragrance marks just one chapter in the exploration of an olfactory landscape. Prior to this, luminaries like Jean-Claude Ellena had already woven their interpretations of juniper's essence into scents such as Angéliques Sous la Pluie, fashioned for Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. Indeed, parallels between these two perfumes abound. Let us then delve into the nuances that set Cresp's creation apart from Ellena's masterpiece.
During my initial test, the opening of Juniper Sling struck me as somewhat unusual. This fragrance truly embodies the essence of gin & tonic. From the very first moments after application, a woody and aromatic juniper scent permeates the air, sending a shiver down my spine. Almost immediately, I also detected the presence of orange notes in the fragrance pyramid. They're sweet and succulent, beautifully offsetting the bitter undertones crafted by Cresp. Assisting them is a sweet yet spicy hint of cinnamon. Personally, I've never been particularly fond of this ingredient; its scent always feels a tad too overwhelming for my liking. Thankfully, in Juniper Sling, it remains pleasantly subtle. Adding the final touch is angelica. What's intriguing is that despite these perfumes capturing the essence of gin with tonic, I couldn't detect the presence of quinine wood in the composition, as found in 20. L’Eau Guerrière, for instance. Kudos, then, for crafting a quinine accord without relying on it.
As the composition evolves, it takes on a more powdery tone at its core, yet retains its initial sharpness. There's also a subtle dusty quality to it, courtesy of the orris root, which also introduces delicate hints of carrot. A deeper breath reveals a tantalizing whiff of black pepper, adding a lively buzz to Juniper Sling as it settles on the skin. This vibrancy was evident from the outset. Accompanying these elements is cardamom, highlighted by Cresp in today's showcased fragrance for its sweet and seductive essence, gently nudging the leather note towards a suede-like warmth. However, its presence isn't immediately apparent to me. Regrettably, the middle phase of the composition feels all too fleeting, swiftly transitioning into the base notes. Here, vetiver takes center stage alongside synthetic woody tones, attributed to the inclusion of Ambroxan. Throughout, juniper remains a constant presence, while a distant hint of black cherry adds a subtle flicker in the background. The addition of brown sugar brings forth a touch more sweetness. Nonetheless, I find the base to be the weakest link in Juniper Sling's olfactory journey.
When it comes to the perfumes under review today, I highly recommend a more liberal application. The scent is rather subtle, and it's only with a generous spritz from the atomizer that it truly comes alive off the skin. It's a pity because particularly in the initial stages, it offers an intriguing aroma. However, Juniper Sling doesn't linger for too long. While I managed to extend its presence on my skin to 7 hours with an increased dosage, typically it begins to fade after about 5-6 hours. Nonetheless, this still marks an acceptable performance for an eau de toilette.
As for Penhaligon’s bottles, while they all share the same shape, they differentiate with a few subtle details, notably the color of the ribbon encircling the bottle's neck. The ribbon adorning the Juniper Sling bottle is white, and it strikes me that this color aligns well with the composition's character. I'm also particularly fond of the label on these perfumes. It exudes elegance, reminiscent of an embossed coat of arms, and the addition of that silver, almost metallic hue enhances its allure.
Juniper Sling exudes elegance and subtlety, staying true to the refined English style. Yet, in my view, they err on the side of conservatism. Particularly considering the array of base notes, I anticipated a touch more daring. Nevertheless, their refined demeanor will undoubtedly suit numerous formal occasions. As a general rule, Juniper Sling is a fragrance for the day, especially fitting for warmer climates. After all, what could be more delightful than a chilled glass of gin and tonic on a scorching July afternoon? For aficionados of this spirit, it's a must-have addition. For others? It's a scent worth acquainting oneself with.
Juniper Sling
Key Note: Juniper.
Author: Olivier Cresp.
Year of creation: 2012.
My rating: Worth getting to know. (5/7)